What a difference a day can make, a full day yesterday with the business brain switched off. Spent a lot of the day just relaxing, reading a book, hanging out in the hammock on the front deck and trying to limit my thoughts to my surfing.

I also took some time to watch the video footage of me on some waves at last week’s SUP Camp to see if I could pick out some areas to improve (plenty available). I was actually quite disappointed in the coaching or lack of at the SUP Camp, I was really looking forward to getting some in depth tuition but this just didn’t happen. Anyway at least I had some video to critique myself from plus a few tips from the coach.

Finally feeling at one with the wave

So back to this morning, up and rearing to go at 6am, surf looking good and HOORAY very little wind. Quick warm up and stretch on the beach, hit the water and paddled through the break and hung out the back waiting for the boat. Looks like the other guests had slept in a tad so my good friend Antonio the boat driver decided to drop me out and come back for them. Pretty happy to arrive at the point and be the first person there, even happier that there was no wind and the waves were looking good.

I had myself psyched for this session, I’d studied the videos and in my mind I thought I pretty much new what I had to do. Missed the first couple but then got onto a nice one, switched the brain on, engaged the body to follow the brain and I was off. YAY YAY YAY it all come together and next thing I knew and was flying along this beautiful wave, carving some turns along the way and staying on for the long ride. WAHOO!!!

WOW how good did that feel !!!

Got off that wave, paddled sideways out of the break and got straight onto another one, YEW, another long one, actually starting to feel the waves now. By the time I got off that one my good friend Antonio arrived to pick me up and take me back to the point. I think he was as happy as I was to see me nail some long ones.

Now I won’t bore you with the details but that’s how it went for the rest of the session, out to the point, getting onto 3 long waves, being picked up and taken back to the point. Every wave got easier, felt better and I was having the time of my life. Definitely had to get the boat back to the point more times than I had on any other session. Hands down the best surf session I’ve ever had in my life.

The wind picked up after a couple of hours, I was getting weary and I’d had more than my fair share of waves and good times so back to the hotel for a shower and a much needed breakfast.


Doing the local thing


I went with my standard rest time for an hour after breakfast and then headed downtown. I set off with a few things in my mind that I wanted to achieve and it seems the positive flow was to continue.

I found the local morning market and purchased some fruit and vegetables as I planned to use the communal kitchen and eat in tonight. Limited variety but I managed to get myself some mandarins, bananas, onion, potato, chilli, capsicum and some peas, enough to create some sort of stir fry I’m sure. Total cost – 6 soles or about AUD2.50.

Next to find a shop to buy some more data for my local sim card, a bit of a challenge without being able to speak a word of Spanish. I  found a shop that sold recharge and with a bit of pointing and hand waving I managed to somehow communicate that I needed to buy 10 soles worth of credit for my encall sim card. The incoming message alert on my phone was the sign that this mission had indeed been accomplished.

One last item on the list, I needed more local currency so it was off in search of the bank. It seems that one of the security measures for the bank is that only one person is aloud inside at any one time, so a short wait in the sunshine followed before I was able to step inside and take my place at the counter. Again no Spanish but pretty easy this one, simply handed over a US$100 note and all was understood. I even managed to get across that I preferred some smaller notes as the 100 Soles notes I got last time proved a bit hard to work with. Things don’t cost too much and many of the people don’t have change of a 100 Soles. So once bitten twice shy.

So I’m thinking that putting aside my thoughts and actions on business for a couple of days has made way for some other things in my life to come together, I’m going with that anyway.

Great timing my masseuse has just arrived, time for a relaxing and muscle rejuvenating 1 hour massage – total cost 50 Soles or about AUD20.00.